Hat Sa to Muong Khoua

After Phongsali I was ready to travel south to Muong Ngoi, a highly talked about spot to visit in Laos. To get there you need to take an hour bus ride from town to Hat Sa. Well, an hour if the road hasn't been washed out or destroyed by the building of a new road (see the 3rd picture down) From Hat Sa you take the Nam Ou (Ou river) south for about 15 hours, but as this would be extremely uncomfortable it's broken up with a stopever in Muong Khoua. Nothing too exciting about the town but a good place to get a rest before getting back on the boat in the morning to head more south. Also a good place to head to Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam.

A Journey to the North - Ban Khounloumluang

In the beginning of December I headed north to Phongsali, the most northern part of Laos you can go to before being in China.  Phongsali is a beautiful region of Laos but that is very much off the beaten path as it's more difficult to get to.  I had to take a 20 hour bus ride from Luang Prabang and it was far from safe of comfortable.  For the first 4 hours I was sitting next to the driver on the engine of the bus, facing the open door which had 2 boys hanging outside of it. I didn't need a seatbelt as I was squished between 2 girls on each side, a girl squished between me and the driver and the two boys squished between me and the boys hanging outside the door. Though not comfy it was a very entertaining beginning to the journey. The next part of the ride had me sitting in an uncomfortable seat that, yes was more safe and comfy than what I had been on, but I still found it near impossible to sleep. Anyways, I eventually made it to the north and I soon learned what people meant when they said to me, "Phongsali is cold bring warm clothes." What they meant was, "It's fucking cold up there, bring many layers or down jackets/blankets not just the long sleeve shirt and hoodie you have, you dumb ass."  So I was cold, very cold... very very cold.


One of the main reasons people go to Phongsali is to go trekking and see the variety of hilltribes and minorities up in that region. It is estimated that about 22 different ethnic minorities are living in the Phongsali province. Among them are Hmong, Khamu, Mien, Iko, Phunoi, Kheu, Lolo, Hanyi, Yao, Thai Khao, Thai Lu, Phuan and Phai.  I originally went with the intention to go trekking around the area for a few days but then shortly realized that I don't really like trekking.  Maybe I should define how I view "trekking." Hiking is one thing. I like going for hikes, but to me trekking is different. Trekking is something "white people" do. They go for walks around indigenous peoples lands and take photos and feel happy because part of their proceeds goes to these people. I could go more into it but it will only further provide reason for you to think I'm a snob. Needless to say, when I settled in Phongsaly I decided not to do any few days treks. Also I should add that most of these minorities are the same ones I would have seen last year in Xixuangbanna, China.  I did however decide to go for a long walk on a somewhat carved out path. This was the trail to go to Ban Khounloumluang.  I chose this one was I had been told that Phongsali Lao Lao (spirited alcohol) is the best in the country and I wanted to visit one of the towns famous for making it.

So off I went and I'm glad I did.  The countryside there is far from touched and very beautiful. I ended up in Ban Khounloumluang around lunch time and was rather hungry. I asked for a spot to eat in town (town being too big of a term here. really more of a small, small village). After a little hesitation I was pointed into a door which I assumed was a restaurant of sorts, but actually was a house and a Basi was going on, or in English terms, a celebration.  I ended up spending a few hours talking, eating, dancing, and drinking with the villagers.  I had to leave before it got dark and I wouldn't be able to get home ok, but by this time I was somewhat inebriated. I thanked them full heartily, left some money for the celebration and stumbled home all giggly like.

I still don't love the idea of trekking but I did have a good day of hiking.  There is a difference, I promise. :)

PS Those yellow flowers so prevalent in these photos... those are poppies. This region used to be huge for opium growing. Perhaps you've heard of the golden triangle?

How to easily support a traveling Yogi/Blogger/Wanderer

UPDATE:  We're nearing the end of this contest and I'm getting creamed. so if you haven't done it yet, please follow the info below as well as spread the word to friends, family, random people, or anyone.  many thanks ahead of time.  A!

OK, it's pretty easy and this is all you need to do.  click the link below, leave a comment, click the "like" on facebook button and if you're on twitter.. tweet about it. one or all 3 are good and the more the merrier.  Basically the deal is this, the person with the most feedback wins. and they win a free yoga scholarship (around $3,000usd)

So with your help I can win this and I'd really like to as nearly two years of backpacking across Asia have not done wonders for my bank account.  So click the links, comment and do it everyday!  It really takes no time and has no negative fallout.  Many thanks, ahead of time!!!

http://yogatrainingguide.com/yoga-teacher-training/nomadic-yogi-seeks-the-help-of-the-internet-to-receive-more-yoga-training/

namaste

a little thanks ahead of time

Friends, family and online acquaintances. I am aware that we all
dislike receiving mass emails and the like, so it is with that in mind
that I am sending one out with hope that you'll read it, act upon it
and not to be too upset with me for sending one out.

For those unaware of my situation, I've been backpacking through Asia
for the last 21 months. The last 7 of which have found me in Luang
Prabang, Laos where I've been doing a little computer work as well as
teaching yoga to cover my living costs. A better update could be
found on my blog here http://herenow-nowhere.blogspot.com/ but that
isn't why I am writing you all.

In April I am planning on taking another yoga teacher training course
and this is where I am asking for your help. I found an online
scholarship program where the winner will receive tuition covered in
full. The way to win is by having the most votes by the end of the day
Dec 31st. Votes are counted in 3 ways and all done from the same
page. Comments left on the page, Facebook likes clicked on from the
page and tweets left from the page all will go to the final tally.
The contest ends in less than 10 days and I'm getting my butt kicked
hard. But I think with all of your help (especially if you forward
this on to your friends) I can win this. You can leave new comments
each day as well as from different email accounts. Your emails are
private and you won't be signed up for spam, they are just used as an
authentication method.

I would appreciate it greatly if you could take a minute out of your
day, today and each day until the end of the year and leave a comment
and or tweet. Facebook likes can only be done once but the comments
and tweets can be done each day.

The link to the page is here.
http://yogatrainingguide.com/yoga-teacher-training/nomadic-yogi-seeks-the-help-of-the-internet-to-receive-more-yoga-training/

Again, I am apologetic for the mass email, but do hope you can look
past that and help a friend in need out.

many thanks and a whole lot of love

ADR

...and I'm off again...

Today I plan to head up north to Phongsali, basically the most north in Laos you can go without being in China. It's a minimum of 20hr bus ride from here to there and this doesn't sound great, especially since it departs at 5:30pm (though I was told that yesterday it left late at 7pm)  Once there I plan to do very little. See local minority tribes, relax, read, maybe walk through villages. Basically be a traveler again.  From there the plan is to take a boat slowly down the Nam Ou (Ou river) stopping in on villages along the way before coming back to Luang Prabang.  A week with no work, nothing to do, no people I know around... sounds great and much needed.

While I am gone I will have limited if any access to internet so please vote for me at this website.
http://yogatrainingguide.com/yoga-teacher-training/nomadic-yogi-seeks-the-help-of-the-internet-to-receive-more-yoga-training/
Comments, tweets and likes via the portion just below my essay are welcomed and encouraged.

Many thanks and be back to you interweb people when I come back.